Charlie Black's everyday blend, and the one to start with. A natural Ethiopian brings the fruit, a washed Colombian keeps it clean underneath, roasted medium-light so it stays sweet and bright.

The two halves are doing two different jobs. The Ethiopian is a natural, dried whole inside the cherry so the fruit sugars soak back into the bean, which is where the berry sweetness comes from. The Colombian is washed, pulped and fermented clean, which gives the blend a backbone so the fruit does not turn to mush.

Caramel and citrus up front, ripe berries behind. Good with milk, good on its own, the kind of espresso that actually tastes like something on a Tuesday morning.

A washed Kenyan from the Komothai growers in Kiambu, grown up around 1,830 metres from the classic SL28 and SL34 alongside Batian and Ruiru 11. Grade AA, washed and dried the way Kenyans are meant to be.

Gathiruini is one of thirteen washing stations in the Komothai co-op, and the name is Gikuyu for "fern plant," after the ferns that grow all over those hills. The blackcurrant-and-citrus thing Kenyan coffee is famous for is not a processing trick, it is the SL28 and SL34: two varieties selected at Kenya's Scott Labs back in the 1930s from a single drought-hardy tree, and still the benchmark today.

Pulled as espresso it is loud in the best way: red fruit, a bright citrus acidity and a juicy finish. Clean and a bit sharp, not for the faint-hearted.

The same Kenyan, brewed long. Filter gives the red fruit and citrus room to stretch out, and the finish stays juicy all the way down.

The Komothai co-op has been going since 1956 and now pulls cherry from more than eleven thousand smallholders, most of them tending a few hundred trees each on small plots of red volcanic soil. Every bag is the work of a lot of small, careful hands.

This is the pick for slow mornings, pour over and plunger. Same beans as the single origin espresso, just a gentler way to drink them.

A Colombian decaffeinated with the sugarcane process, which pulls the caffeine while leaving the sweetness and body where they belong. That is the difference between a decaf that tastes like coffee and one that tastes like a memory of it.

The clever bit is how it is done. The caffeine is drawn out using ethyl acetate, a compound made by fermenting sugarcane molasses, which is handy given Colombia grows sugarcane just about everywhere. No high heat and no pressure, so the sugars and the body stay largely intact.

Mild and easy, milk chocolate with a honey finish. For after dinner, or for anyone who is off the caffeine but not off good coffee.